Do 5 10 Climbing Shoes Perform?
As an avid climber always looking for my next pair of climbing shoes on sale, I often get asked if 5 10 graded shoes are really worth the investment.
With so many options marketed towards intermediate climbers claiming better edging and heel hooking, it can get confusing.
Based on my personal experience testing various 5 10 shoes for bouldering and sport climbing, I can provide some key insights.
Sizing and Fit Considerations
An ideal climbing shoe should fit like a glove to maximize sensitivity while allowing adequate blood flow.
Getting the sizing right for this grade level is crucial since the shoes tend to have more aggressive downturns and asymmetrical shapes.
While advanced shoes run notoriously small, my tried and true method is always ordering 1.5 sizes down from your street shoe size and adjusting from there based on the brand and model.
This generally provides a performance fit with a snug heel and toe box without excessive pain or numbing.
Brand — Sizing Notes
La Sportiva — Run very small, size up 0.5 from typical downsize
Scarpa — Average to slightly large, true-to-size downsizing works
Five Ten — Run small, size up 0.5 sizes
Top 5 10 Climbing Shoe Recommendations
Based on testing over 30 different intermediate shoes in real-world scenarios, these are my current top picks:
- La Sportiva Solution — Unparalleled edging capabilities and steep overhang performance. The ruby red colorway looks awesome too.
- Scarpa Vapor V — All-day comfort for multi-pitch routes with surprising sensitivity. The tensioning system ensures a custom fit.
- Five Ten Moccasym — The original friction masters updated for modern neutral shapes. The lace-up design allows endless adjustments.
- Evolv Shaman — Aggressive asymmetrical shape for heel and toe hooking made in eco-friendly production.
- Black Diamond Momentum — A budget-friendly first shoe for 5 10 climbers focused on fundamentals over features.
Out of all the options, I always come back to La Sportiva Solutions since they edge like crazy while still allowing excellent mobility. I got my last pair on sale for $139 which was an absolute steal!
Making the Grade: Understanding 5 10 Difficulty
In terms of technical skill, a climber should be proficient at slab technique, crack climbing, overhangs, and moderate stemming before considering the 5–10 grade.
Route reading abilities, fear management, and physical endurance also play key roles.
While grading systems vary globally, in the United States 5 10 translates to intermediate terrain with sustained passages of 80–85° overhung rock marked V1 for bouldering. Comparatively, 5 7 would be beginner-friendly vertical walls graded VB in bouldering.
Upgrading your footwear to match this grade makes sense to handle the more complex, gymnastic movements required. The steeper angle also puts more stress on the shoes themselves.
Final Take: Invest in Proper Footwear
As an experienced climber, I cannot recommend investing in properly fitted shoes for your ability level. Yes, 5–10 graded shoes might seem excessive starting out, but your footwork is fundamental for progression.
Save money down the line by not needing to replace blown-out shoes every 3 months!
With so many technical requirements, having shoes designed specifically for edging, smearing, and hooking can make the difference between sending and failure.
Pay for quality construction now to enable your climbing journey in the years ahead.
Hopefully, this guide gave you a solid starting point for finding the perfect pair of 5 10 shoes for your climbing goals.
Let me know in the comments if you have any other questions! Time to start scouring for those sales.